Memorable Moments from an Extraordinary Safari in Kenya

"What’s great about this experience is that the Samburu people are so welcoming. They don’t have many visitors here, so everything feels very authentic - this is very much real Africa."

Camel Trekking and Fly Camping along the Great Rift Valley of East Africa with the Samburu

If you’re looking to get closer to nature and enjoy an authentic African experience sleeping in the bush, then fly camping in the remote Samburu lowlands in Northern Kenya is a must. I begin my journey at Kitich Forest Camp, a rustic 12-person camp located in a pristine forest glade on the upper slopes of the Mathew Mountains (also known as the Lenkiyio Hills). Kitich is unusual in that there are no game drives. Instead guided walks are led by local Samburu trackers who have intimate knowledge of the sounds, scents and sights of the forest. Led by camels, the crew can also take you on longer hikes, guiding you through the untouched Samburu landscapes. 

After driving along a dusty dirt road, we meet our camels and guides who are patiently waiting for us under some trees. Our camels are loaded up with our small overnight bags and we set off on foot following the camels down a rocky and sandy pathway. As it is October, it has not rained yet so the land around us is very dry and almost desert-like with a few shrubs and small trees popping up here and there. 

We make our way down into a sandy riverbed (also known as a laga) which is completely dry and walk along with only our camels and guides for company. You can see how the land has been shaped by water pathways. Huge granite rocks protrude from the bed and the surrounding scenery showcases multiple hues of brown. Amidst this vast wilderness, I feel very small. 

After an hour or so we come across a community of Samburu people  – semi-nomadic pastoralists – who are digging a well to find water for their livestock (cows and goats). Our guide explains that they know where to dig the well since the elephants in the area also dig for water here, leaving a small hole in the sand guiding the Samburu. Traditionally known as the ‘singing wells’, the Samburu warriors sing to create a rhythm to work to. Once they reach water, a wooden trough (which looks like a long thick tree stump that has been dug out) is placed beside the well and filled with water before each family’s livestock takes turns drinking. 

On our journey, we also come across a steel smith who is set up under a tree recycling old steel pots and making them into spears, knives, spoons, and jewellery. It is extremely interesting to see how they melt the steel down with charcoal using a contraption made out of goat skins. This creates air which blows straight onto the coals making it hot enough to melt the steel. According to my guide, this particular steel smith is very well known in the area for crafting the best spears.

We continue to our fly camp, arriving at a beautifully shaded spot where lunch and welcome cold drinks await us. After lunch we are shown around our camp; the tents are simple bell canvas tents with everything you need for the night including comfortable mattresses on camping beds. Just outside our tent is a mirror with a basin and some hot/cold water, which is delivered in the morning and evening or whenever you wish. The shower area is very simple with the bucket shower hung from a tree. This is filled up with warm water for every shower.

After we tour the camp, the fly camping team and guides have a surprise for us. We watch as local Samburu Morran (young warriors aged 14-30) dressed in bright-coloured Shuka’s (traditional cloth) and beaded necklaces, whilst carrying hand-crafted spears dance in front of us. Forming a circle, one by one each Morran takes a turn in the middle with a competition to see who can jump the highest. The winner is said to be the strongest and they are then considered to be ready to choose a wife. Speaking to our Samburu guides is fascinating and I learn so much about how the Samburu are trying to preserve their culture and traditions. 

As the evening draws in, we walk further into the Samburu lowlands. Our guide constantly points out different types of birds and explains how the Samburu use different plants to treat their livestock or as herbal medicines. We come across elephant footprints and our guide tells us how elephants have five toes on their front feet and four toes on their back feet.

We make our way back to the camp to find a table set up in the middle of the sand bed surrounded by lanterns. The sky is a very dark blue and millions of stars are twinkling above – the perfect backdrop to our dinner which consists of chicken kebabs accompanied by potatoes and several types of side salads. 

Waking up before sunrise we get ready to start our walk in the early morning while it is still cool. You can ride the camels whenever you want, making it ideal for families with children who might tire more quickly. I am worried that it is not going to be a very comfortable ride, but with the cushions and the camel saddle, it is a wonderful experience as you get a completely different perspective of your surroundings.  When you are walking in the sand river you are mostly looking at where to place your feet, but on the camel, you have the opportunity to sit back and relax whilst gazing out at the landscape. As I am on the lead camel, I am able to speak with my guide and ask lots of questions about the different birds and plants. He tells me about his culture, family and the different stages he went through before he became an elder.

What’s great about this experience is that the Samburu people are so welcoming. They don’t have many visitors here, so everything feels very authentic – this is very much real Africa. It’s also wonderful to see how the team around you work together to assemble and disassemble the camp, prepare meals, and take care of all the small details to make it comfortable. 

Scorpion Safari at Saruni Samburu

Saruni Samburu is located in tribal lands to the north of Samburu National Reserve. The lodge where I am staying overlooks a vast private wildlife sanctuary called Kalama Conservancy and has exclusive access to the surrounding 200,000 acres of pristine, protected wilderness.

During my stay, I enjoy a fascinating ‘scorpio safari’. Whilst only taking half an hour, it is extremely interesting. I set off for a short walk around the lodge with my guide after dinner. He uses a special ultraviolet flashlight which illuminates the scorpions due to the absorbent molecules in their exoskeleton as they hunt for prey. We look out for the large Emperor scorpion and the tiny ‘Neobuthus kloppers’ –  a new species discovered by one of the lodge’s managers, Johan. We spot one scorpion patiently lying in wait for its prey before it captures the bug with its pincers and uses the poisonous tip of its tail to dispatch it. Whilst not your ‘usual’ safari activity, it was fun to learn about a species that normally flies under the radar. 

Horse Riding at Lewa Downs Conservancy

Whilst I am not a horse rider, I had the opportunity to enjoy an afternoon ride during my stay at Lewa Wilderness. Situated on the edge of one of Kenya’s most private wildlife and environmental conservation projects, the wildlife-rich Lewa provides a home-away-from-home experience that’s hard to find.

After a briefing from our guide, we set off. Feeling a little nervous to begin with, I soon start to relax. My horse knows exactly what to do and where to go and all I need to do is hold the reins. Making our way through the savannah grasslands, I feel as if I am surrounded by a swaying field of gold. Heading out just before sunset, the timing is perfect as the sunlight hits the long grass at just the right angle forming a mesmerising picture. In the distance, I spot Grevy’s zebra, waterbuck, impala and giraffe peacefully going about their daily lives. We make our way over to the zebra and I am amazed that they don’t scatter but simply carry on eating as we watch from just a few metres away. 

We continue on our trail along the edge of the conservancy and come across some rather opinionated baboons. We watch as they swing from branch to branch, chasing each other through the trees. Nearby are some impalas and my guide explains that they use the baboons as an alarm signal for leopards. Being higher up, baboons are more likely to spot these cunning creatures, alerting other animals with their screams. 

From here we make our way back to the lodge, stopping for surprise sundowners. Beautifully set up overlooking the valley with giraffes wandering by, this is the perfect way to end the day. 

The Shamba Lunch at Lewa Wilderness

Located on a ridge in the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy in the north central Kenyan highlands, Lewa Wilderness is a wonderful homestead with its own small farm. Taking on the farm-to-fork philosophy, everything you eat here is grown and produced on the farm or Shamba. From eggs, milk and goat cheese to freshly baked bread and strawberries, everything here is produced organically. I take a tour of the gardens, learning how the different fruits and vegetables are grown. From growing and drying alfalfa to feed the chickens and cows to the worm farms which feed the fish and help the plants grow, everything is interconnected. During my tour, I get to taste and pick the fruits and vegetables before enjoying a delicious farm-to-fork lunch under a shady mango tree. 

Spotting Leopard in the Mara Triangle

One of the most memorable moments of my trip to Kenya was the game drive I went on in the Mara Triangle. Waking early, we set off at 6 am. With the dew still on the grass, it is a little chilly in the open vehicle, but I have a warming mug of hot chocolate which is perfect to sip on as we trundle down the escarpment watching as the savannah comes to life. We pass by the Mara River looking for hippos who are slowly making their way back to the river after a night of feasting on grass. We continue along listening to bird calls and stopping every so often to scan the area with our binoculars. As we stop we surprise two bat-eared foxes, an extremely rare sight as these creatures are nocturnal. After such an exciting viewing we find a lovely spot overlooking the plains for breakfast.

Continuing on our journey, our guide suddenly stops. I hurriedly pick up my binoculars and see a leopard moving down a small ridge. We drive closer to get a better look and manage to follow him as he marks his territory.  Following the leopard off-road, we drive along a trench, stopping every so often when the leopard does. We follow him for over an hour and a half, with excellent sightings. He travels up and down the trench drinking some water, and trails past our vehicle before finding the perfect spot for a nap underneath a tree.