Once known as the Chocolate Islands due to the high-quality cacao grown here during its years under Portuguese colonial rule (and now enjoying a renaissance), the twin-island nation of São Tomé and Príncipe lies around 150 miles off the coast of Gabon in the Gulf of Guinea.
Delightfully low-key and utterly off-the-radar, it is the perfect destination for nature lovers and curious travellers keen to explore an Eden far removed from the modern world. Both are cloaked in rainforest, pierced occasionally by spectacular volcanic plugs and pinnacles straight out of the imagination of Edgar Rice Burroughs, and ringed by deserted tropical beaches and steep volcanic slopes that plunge into the warm Atlantic Ocean.
"Despite being Africa’s second-smallest nation, the country is a treasure trove of biodiversity."
While the island’s beaches are world-class–and a major reason for coming to São Tomé and Príncipe – exploring reveals the true character of these enchanted isles. Discover sleepy coastal villages, where life plays out to the rhythms of fishing and the sensual beat of the kizomba. Wander through atmospherically crumbling cacao plantations – some still working, others reclaimed by the jungle – to gain a poignant insight into the islands’ colonial history, and meet rebel producers like Claudio Corallo who will soon convert you to the cause when you taste his dreamy award-winning chocolate. Visit São Tomé town’s bustling market with a local chef and gather the ingredients for a delicious calulu that you’ll prepare together.
Despite being Africa’s second-smallest nation, the country is a treasure trove of biodiversity. The forests of Principe – a short 30-minute flight from São Tomé – are a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, and have more endemic species per square mile than anywhere else on Earth. Follow rainforest trails in search of the islands’ many unique orchids, or wind between mist-shrouded volcanic peaks in search of rare birds found nowhere else on the planet. Dive pristine coral reefs where you’ll encounter turtles, rays and colourful fish. Head out with conservationists to help release turtle hatchlings, or charter a yacht for the day and watch humpback whales breaching in the warm Atlantic waters. And, after a day in the field, unwind with the friendly locals who love nothing more than kicking back with some palm wine and throwing a street party.
In planning when to visit São Tomé and Príncipe, the only real time to avoid is the long rainy season from March to May. Birders should consider coming in January or February when birds are sporting their finest mating plumage, while whale enthusiasts will want to visit between August and October when the humpbacks are passing through. Peppered by a small handful of luxury resorts and converted plantation houses that offer unexpectedly high comfort levels, and served by flights from Lisbon and a handful of West and Central African capitals, São Tomé and Príncipe is beginning to emerge as one of Africa’s most exciting new frontiers in ecotourism.
