Visiting Chad demands a certain breed of traveller. This is frontier territory, perfect for those with a curious appetite in search of something completely different.
However, for the right kind of traveller (seasoned, conservation-minded and relatively risk-tolerant), Chad presents an extraordinary opportunity to experience rarely-seen wonders in one of the planet’s most extreme locations. Despite the scars of its emergence from French colonial rule, and the ecological disaster of its namesake lake, Chad offers even now an experience of Africa that has all but vanished elsewhere, and in recent years has become a somewhat unlikely poster child for African conservation tourism.
"Each day will bring you different opportunities to explore – by helicopter, light plane, 4×4 and on foot."
In the unforgiving north, the wind-sculpted Ennedi Plateau and jagged volcanic peaks of the Tibesti offer a Sahara that is completely untamed, only inhabited by the toughest nomadic tribespeople. Further south, Wodaabe cattle-herders cross the Sahel in small family groups, coming together for festivals. The most notable of these is the breathtaking Gerewol Festival, a genuinely unforgettable cultural highlight of a trip to Chad and a far more authentic version than that found in neighbouring countries such as Niger. Further south, Zakouma National Park is one of Africa’s best kept wildlife secrets and an uplifting symbol of hope.
Opportunities to experience Chad currently focus on two amazing and very different national parks, Zakouma and Ennedi. Accessed by light plane from the bustling capital N’Djamena, Zakouma was once a stronghold for over 4,000 elephant. By 2010, though, it had lost 90% of its herds to ivory poachers. A long-term management plan set out by African Parks and the Chad Government has turned things around completely, and poaching has now been all but eliminated. Now, with the creation of the wonderful Camp Nomade mobile operation, and accompanied by some of the continent’s finest guides, you can experience the Africa of a century ago. With fly camping also offered so that you can explore a variety of locations, it is once again possible to view Zakouma’s huge wildlife numbers, including its restored elephant herds, big cats, giraffe, rhino and over 200 bird species.
In sharp contrast to Zakouma, and relatively straightforward to pair together, is Ennedi Natural and Cultural Reserve. Located in northeast Chad, its otherworldly escarpments, mushroom rocks and dunes have been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site for their unique natural formations and globally significant rock art sites. Almost surrounded by a natural amphitheatre of honeyed sandstone cliffs, Warda Tented Camp is the only real place you can stay, although overnight fly-camping expeditions are possible across the Ennedi. Each day will bring you different opportunities to explore – by helicopter, light plane, 4×4 and on foot. Discover verdant palm oases, ancient camel caravan routes and desert crocodiles. Interact with secretive Tubu camel herders, view remarkable cave paintings, and feel suitably humbled beneath gargantuan rock arches.
A visit to Chad may only happen once in your lifetime. It is challenging, and things don’t always go 100% to plan. However, if the call for adventure and a desire to explore one of the world’s remotest regions beats strongly in your heart, there is no more rewarding place in which to do so.
